An once offbeat destination, Jaisalmer is currently one of the most popular ones, thanks to Instagram travel influencers. Jaisalmer, however, was always a part of my bucket list for two reasons- My love for Rajasthan in general and the fact that I had never been to a desert earlier. Needless to say, I was super excited when our trip to Jaisalmer finally materialized. Right in the heart of the Thar Desert and every single structure built of yellow sandstone, the Golden City truly lives up to its title.
Best Time To Visit Jaisalmer
The recommended best time to visit Jaisalmer is during the winter months of September to March to avoid the scorching desert sun. The weather is mostly pleasant during these months.
Getting To Jaisalmer
The Jaisalmer Airport is currently connected with few major domestic destinations. We flew directly from Mumbai to Jaisalmer. Another way to reach Jaisalmer via air is to fly to Jodhpur Airport which is 300 kms away and hire a cab to Jaisalmer. The city is also well connected by road and rail with the rest of Rajasthan and India.
Getting Around Jaisalmer
The best way to explore the city of Jaisalmer is by renting a local autorickshaw. To travel to and from Sam Sand Dunes and Longewala, I recommend booking a local cab service. They provide guided tours as well.
Jaisalmer Itinerary For 3 Days
This is a personal account of my trip to Jaisalmer in December 2020. With walking tours of forts and havelis, cultural shows, mind blowing desert experiences and lip smacking food, a trip to Jaisalmer can be super enriching and must be planned in advance. 3 Days are sufficient to explore the best of Jaisalmer and I hope this itinerary will help you in planning your trip to the land of the Golden Fort. Read on!!
Day 1: Jaisalmer Fort-Patwon Ki Haveli-Nathmal Ki Haveli/Bada Bagh-Rooftop Dinner
Explore Jaisalmer Fort
The Jaisalmer Fort or Shonar Kella(The Golden Fortress) as it is popularly referred to is the major tourist attraction in the city and the first day in Jaisalmer has to start with a visit to this iconic landmark. One of the last living forts in the world, you will come across the current inhabitants of the fort going about their daily lives while exploring the meandering alleys and sandstone stairways of the fort leading all the way up to the cannon point which offers a panoramic view of the glimmering city.
The fort also houses various hotels and cafes which are mostly closed currently due to the pandemic. The local musicians playing Rajasthani folk music add to the old world vibe. In case you are a fan of Indian handicrafts, the fort also has a local market inside the complex where you will find artisans displaying their wares from silver jewellery to colourful dupattas at steal prices. One needs to set aside 3-4 hours to explore the fort including the Royal Palace and the Jain Temples. A guided tour is recommended to save time and make the most of it.
Visit Patwon Ki Haveli
Another must visit spot in Jaisalmer, Patwon Ki haveli is a cluster of five distinct havelies(mansions) built in 1805 by a wealthy trader for each of his five sons. The first and the largest Haveli in Jaisalmer and the second in Rajasthan, the historical and cultural significance of Patwon Ki Haveli is due to its unique architecture and design.
The outside of the Haveli resembles the rest of Jaisalmer with its sandstone walls but as you step inside, you will be spellbound by the intricate carvings, murals, mirrorwork and paintings adorning the walls and arches. The Haveli has countless jharokhas and balconies which offer mesmerizing views of the city.
Visit Nathmal Ki Haveli And Bada Bagh
An ornate architecture in the heart of the city, Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli used to be the residence of the then Prime Minister Diwan Mohata Nathmal. A confluence of Islamic and Rajputana architectural styles, this 19th century Haveli was constructed by two architect brothers who started working on the opposite ends of the haveli leading to similar but non-identical left and right facade. The Haveli is still partially inhabited and is open to tourists during the day. Bada Bagh is another popular destination in Jaisalmer, the prime attraction being the magnificent centotaphs constructed for the royal family members. Unfortunately, during our trip, due to the sad demise of the scion of the erswhile royal family of Jaisalmer, Brijraj Singh, Bada Bagh was closed to the general public and tourists. However, a visit to Bada Bagh is highly recommended.
Enjoy A Rooftop Dinner
End your first day in Jaisalmer by dining at one of the various rooftop cafes and restaurants which serve lip smacking local cuisine as well as continental fare. I recommend The Trio at Mandir Palace and Nachana Haveli at Sadar Bazaar.
Day 2: Gadisar Lake-Desert Safari Sam Sand Dunes-Desert Camp
Visit Gadisar Lake In The Early Morning
Start your second day in Jaisalmer with an early morning trip to the Gadisar Lake. An artificial lake in the otherwise arid region, Gadisar or Gadsisar lake was constructed by the founder ruler of Jaisalmer, King Rawal Jaisalmer in 1156 AD. It once used to provide water to the entire town.
The lake has numerous chhatris and shrines including one in the middle of the lake. Boating can be availed from 8am to 8 pm every day. If you are visiting in the winter months, you are bound to spot migratory birds of different species.
Enjoy Desert Safari In Thar Desert
A trip to Jaisalmer is incomplete without a Desert Safari. The best way to experience this is to opt for a package at one of the Desert Camps which provide luxury swiss tent accommodation for night camping and safari tours in the day. We had booked our stay at one of the desert camps in Sam Sand Dunes which is approximately 40 kms from the city. As we reached around late afternoon, we quickly headed to the sand dunes courtesy the Desert Jeep Safari. This was probably the craziest ride in my life. Ladies make sure to have your headscarves handy and hands free!!
Once you reach the sand dunes, take your time to bask in the glory of the magnificent Thar Desert. You can enjoy the camel Safari as well which is widely popular. I am not particularly a fan of animal rides but I understand the livelihood of a lot of locals depend on these tourist activities and hence I opted for one. The jeeps start heading back to camps post sunset so make sure to enjoy the remaining time admiring nature’s beauty at its best.
Stay Overnight At Desert Camp In Sam Sand Dunes
An overnight stay in one of the desert camps is much recommended for various reasons. Camping in the swiss tents under the magical desert sky transports you to fables of Arabian Nights and trust me its beyond beautiful.
The camps also host cultural evenings which are super enjoyable and entertaining. From traditional folk music to the various folk dances of Rajasthan like Ghoomar and Kalbelia, you will be left gaping in wonder. Finish your day by dancing around the bonfire and enjoying the scrumptious Rajasthani dinner thali.
Day 3: Longewala War Memorial-Tanot Rai Mandir-Shopping In Jaisalmer
Head To Longewala War Memorial
Around 120 kms from Sam Sand Dunes, in the western part of Jaisalmer, at the Indo-Pak border, lies Longewala, the site of the Battle Of Longewala during the Indo-Pakistani war of 1971. The Longewala War Memorial is an ode to the valour and sacrifice of the Indian Army. You will get to know about the life and contribution of all the martyrs who fought in the battle. The T-59 and Sherman Tanks captured by the Indian Army are exhibited at the memorial along with other fighter jets and tanks.
You can watch the 15 minute war film depicting the gallantry and challenges of the Indian soldiers during the battle. The film runs in a bunker room inside the memorial. The famous Bollywood movie Border is based on The Battle Of Longewala.
Stop By At Tanot Rai Mandir
Very close to the Longewala War Memorial is the Tanot Rai Mandir which was bulit by Rajput King Tanu Rao in 828 AD. The temple was attacked by the Pakistani Army during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1965 as well as Indo-Pakistani War of 1971.The temple complex houses war memorabilia as a well a victory tower to commemorate the victory in the Battle of Longewala.
Explore The Famous Bazaars Of Jaisalmer
Rajasthan is a treasure trove of Indian handicrafts and handloom and hence, a visit to the Royal State calls for some indulgence in retail therapy. Jaisalmer boasts of seven different markets where you can shop for antiques to bandhani sarees to your heart’s content. Even if you do not particularly enjoy shopping, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells of these colourful, bustling local markets is an absolute treat to the senses. I recommend Pansari Bazaar, Sadar Bazaar and Manak Chowk to get all your shopping needs in order.
Where To Stay In Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer has quite a few heritage accommodations with a lot of palaces and mansions currently hosting tourists, including the Jaisalmer Fort. Even the newly constructed resorts and hotels replicate the traditional sandstone architecture of the golden city, making it almost impossible to figure out the difference. I recommend a stay at one of these heritage hotels to get an unforgettable experience. Worry not for these stays come in both luxury and budget tariff ranges. If you are looking for a luxury stay, look no further than the spectacular Suryagarh Jaisalmer. For moderate and budget heritage stays, opt straight for Nachana Haveli.
Since we were travelling over the Christmas weekend, the above properties were sold out (Nachana Haveli being our first choice) and hence had opted for another amazing property called Himmatgarh Palace. A short distance from all the popular landmarks, this property comes with all modern amenities and is a great stay option. As I already mentioned, I highly recommend an overnight stay at one of the desert camps in Sam Sand Dunes.
Check Availability For Suryagarh Jaisalmer
Check Availability For Nachana Haveli
Check Availability For Himmatgarh Palace
Check Availability At Sam Sand Dunes Desert Camp
Where And What To Eat In Jaisalmer
There are so many rooftop cafes across Jaisalmer. The ones inside the fort had currently shut shop due to the pandemic. Rooftop cafes and restaurants like Gaji’s and The Trio offer some of the best food in the city. If you want to experience fine dining Haveli style, then book a table at the Suryagarh Restaurant or Nachana Haveli restaurant. Some of the must try food in Jaisalmer are Dal Baati Choorma, Gatte Ki Sabzi, Pyaaz Ki Kachori, Ker Sagri, Rajasthani Laal Maas and Rajasthani Junglee Maas. Don’t forget to try the mouthwatering Rajasthani sweets and namkeens at the local markets.
What To Shop In Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer, like the rest of Rajasthan, leaves you spoilt for choice when it comes to shopping. Apart from the seven bazaars, one can also visit the Jaisalmer Emporium outside the fort for a good shopping experience. They even provide the option to have your purchased products delivered to your doorstep across India. I was pretty surprised to see that unlike most places, the vendors here quote very reasonable prices and hence, you would mostly not need to use your bargaining skills.
My favorite and recommended things to buy in Jaisalmer are Bandhani and Leheriya Dupattas, Sarees, Silver Jewellery, Rajasthani Puppets, Rajasthani Pagdi (turban), Mojri Chappals, Mirrorwork waistcoats and Meenakari Dhola Maru Bangle Set (my favourite buy😃)
What Did We Spend In Jaisalmer
Contrary to popular belief, I found Jaisalmer extremely reasonable even during the peak holiday season; and suitable for both luxury and budget travel. The round trip flights for Mumbai-Jaisalmer was approximately 8k per person. For accommodation of 3 nights, it was roughly another 10k each. We spent roughly 10k on transportation within and around Jaisalmer for our group of 4 adults making it 2.5k each. On food and miscellaneous items, the expense incurred per person was 8k (All our stays came with complimentary buffet breakfast. The Desert Camp included High Tea and Dinner as well).
Note: All the expenses mentioned are in INR and do not include shopping.
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Talk soon,
Isha
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